Odd-looking shoes that are hybrids of the practical and the fashionable are everywhere.
那些把实用性和时尚性混搭在一起、外形古怪的鞋子如今随处可见。
From the five-toed sneaker to the snoafer, footwear never looked so awkward.
从五趾运动鞋到运动乐福鞋,鞋履从未显得如此别扭。
What's the appeal?
它的吸引力在哪里?
For some people shoes are an afterthought.
对一些人来说,鞋子只是事后才会想到的东西。
The more inconspicuous the better.
越不起眼越好。
For others, they takes centre stage – the main character of an outfit.
对另一些人来说,它们则占据舞台中央——成为一身穿搭的主角。
But where a showstopper shoe might once have meant a Manolo Blahnik stiletto, for the fashion-forward these days, it's just as likely to mean something flat, wide, possibly a bit gross and perhaps even looking not unlike a potato – in a word, bizarre.
但过去一双吸睛的鞋或许意味着一双 Manolo Blahnik 细高跟鞋,而如今对时尚前卫的人来说,它同样可能意味着某种又平又宽、可能有点恶心、甚至看起来有点像土豆的东西——一句话:怪。
Among other things, mutation and cross-breeding are "in".
其中,变异和混搭正变得流行。
There is the so-called "Frankenshoe", a hybrid of shoe silhouettes mashed into one.
有所谓的“弗兰肯鞋”,也就是把多种鞋型轮廓混合成一体的杂交款。
Among the best-known hybrid-shoe is the sneakerina – a dainty, balletic trainer-pump – which jeté'd its way across the fashion industry last years.
最知名的混合鞋款之一是 sneakerina,一种精致、带有芭蕾感的运动鞋与浅口鞋混合款,去年它以芭蕾跃步般的姿态风靡时尚界。
Then there's also the snoafer (the sneaker and loafer), which The Wall Street Journal coined "the footwear equivalent of the spork"; and the loafer boots, which is spared its own portmanteau but which Vogue says has the ladylike "sensibility of a top-handle bag".
此外还有 snoafer,也就是运动鞋和乐福鞋的结合,《华尔街日报》称其为“鞋履界的叉勺”;还有乐福靴,虽然没被单独造出一个混成词,但《Vogue》说它具有手提包般的淑女“气质”。
It doesn't stop there: there's also the sock-boot, the Clogs-trainer and the wedge-trainer, controversial when it was a staple on the feet of Paris Hilton in the 00s and now cautiously back.
还不止这些:还有袜靴、木鞋运动鞋和坡跟运动鞋;后者在 21 世纪头十年作为帕丽斯·希尔顿脚上的常见单品时颇具争议,如今又谨慎回潮。
Then there are the shoes that laugh in the face of elegance or "good taste" to offer something unexpected, bizarre or outright daft.
还有一些鞋公然挑战优雅或“好品味”,呈现出意想不到、怪异甚至彻底荒唐的效果。
Think Crocs or those five-toed shoes that clothe toes like a glove; or the iconic frog wellington boots, the Wellipet, that Jonathan Anderson brought back out of the pond and on to the catwalk in 2023.
想想 Crocs,或那种像手套包住手指一样包住脚趾的五趾鞋;再想想标志性的青蛙雨靴 Wellipet,Jonathan Anderson 在 2023 年把它从池塘里重新带回,并送上了秀场。
Clogs in general have offered a rich seam of inspiration, from sensible orthopaedic models to avant-garde takes, such as the jelly clogs with an embossed rococo-style design from Parisian brand Y/Project.
总体而言,木鞋一直提供着丰富的灵感来源,从实用的矫形款到先锋派演绎皆有,例如巴黎品牌 Y/Project 推出的带有浮雕洛可可风格图案的果冻木鞋。
Then there are the currently infamous Gardana gardening clogs the colour of mucus that are seen on trendy feet from Brooklyn to Paris.
还有眼下臭名昭著的 Gardana 园艺木屐,颜色像黏液一样,从布鲁克林到巴黎都能在潮人的脚上看到。
A main character in this story is the cloven-toe shoe.
这个故事中的一个主角是分趾鞋。
Laughably gross to many, the split-toe design has been wending its way on to fashion-lovers' feet around the world for years now thanks to the renaissance of Maison Margiela's Tabi shoes.
分趾设计在许多人看来可笑又恶心,但多亏 Maison Margiela 的 Tabi 鞋复兴,它多年来一直慢慢走上世界各地时尚爱好者的双脚。
Debuted in 1988 and inspired by 15th-Century Japananese sock design, their impact has been seismic.
它们于 1988 年首次亮相,灵感来自 15 世纪的日本袜子设计,其影响堪称震撼。
And y ou'd now being hard pushed to find a trainer brand not offering some kind of cloven design.
而且现在你几乎很难找到一个不推出某种分趾设计的运动鞋品牌。
But perhaps the most hyperbolic of all uglier' shoes, tellingly designed by an art collective more for the sake of generating memes than protecting metatarsals, is the MSCHF big red boot.
但在所有丑鞋中,最夸张的或许是 MSCHF 大红靴;耐人寻味的是,它由一个艺术团体设计,目的与其说是保护跖骨,不如说是制造网络梗图。
More Mario than Monday morning trip to buy milk, they were duly worn by many street stylers after they were launched in 2023.
它们更像《马力欧》里的装备,而不像周一早晨出门买牛奶穿的鞋;2023 年推出后,也理所当然地被许多街拍潮人穿上了脚。
Of course a lot of the buzz around these hybrid or otherwise strange shoes starts with conversations online – some of them are as much stunt as shoe.
当然,围绕这些混合款或其他怪鞋的许多热议都始于网上讨论——其中一些与其说是鞋,不如说同样是一场噱头表演。
As J'Nae Phillips, creator of the Fashion Tingz newsletter, tells the BBC: "people increasingly enjoy fashion items that provoke reactions, become conversational objects, or function almost like visual memes".
正如 Fashion Tingz 通讯的创作者 J'Nae Phillips 告诉 BBC 的那样:“人们越来越喜欢那些能激起反应、成为谈资,或几乎像视觉梗图一样发挥作用的时尚单品。”
But for many of these strange footwear choices, particularly the less sensational among them, real-life demand is high.
但对于许多这类奇怪的鞋履选择,尤其是其中不那么耸动的款式,现实生活中的需求很高。
Sneakerinas, for instance, are in demand.
比如,运动芭蕾鞋就很受欢迎。
The Puma Speedcat Ballerina, Vibram minimalist V-Soul shoes and Prada's Collapse Re-Nylon range led the troupe, all making their way on to Lyst's index of the hottest products last year.
Puma Speedcat Ballerina、Vibram 极简 V-Soul 鞋以及 Prada 的 Collapse Re-Nylon 系列领衔登场,去年全都登上了 Lyst 最热门产品指数。
There is also the Mary Jane sneaker, that comes with a strap or buckle on top, and has been catapulted "from a fairly niche fashion conversation to something much more mainstream pretty fast," according to Brendan Dunne at resale platform StockX.
还有 Mary Jane 运动鞋,鞋面带有一条搭带或搭扣;据转售平台 StockX 的 Brendan Dunne 说,它已经“相当快地从一个颇为小众的时尚话题跃升为更主流的东西”。
Sales of Mary Jane-inspired sneakers were, he tells the BBC, "up more than 350% year-over-year in Q1 2026, which is a clear signal that this is moving beyond editorial hype and into genuine consumer demand."
他告诉 BBC,玛丽珍鞋风格运动鞋的销量“在 2026 年第一季度同比增长超过 350%,这清楚表明它正从编辑圈和媒体炒作走向真正的消费者需求”。
And the snoafer's most popular take, the New Balance 1906L, "has seen more than 13,000 sales on StockX since launch".
而 snoafer 最受欢迎的版本 New Balance 1906L,“自推出以来在 StockX 上的销量已超过 13,000 双”。
There is, he says, "huge interest in hybrid silhouettes that blend sport, fashion, and a bit of unexpected design".
他说,人们“对融合运动、时尚和一点出人意料设计的混合轮廓非常感兴趣”。
So what's going on?
那么,这到底是怎么回事?
Why are fashion-lovers so intent on breaking out of the shoe-box?
为什么时尚爱好者如此执意要跳出这个“鞋盒”框框?
According to Phillips, these oddities signal something that the fashion literate like to communicate: "a deliberately awkward, hybrid or unexpected shoe can break the stiffness of an outfit and make someone look more self-aware, more culturally fluent, and less overly polished."
菲利普斯认为,这些怪鞋传递出时尚懂行者喜欢表达的一种信息:“一双刻意显得别扭、混搭或出人意料的鞋,可以打破一身造型的僵硬感,让人看起来更有自觉、更懂文化语境,也不那么过分精致。”
There's also an element of If You knowing You Know, which has been a potent force in fashion of late.
其中还有一种“懂的都懂”的元素,而这种元素近来一直是时尚界的一股强大力量。
As Meg Palmer of market research agency Verve says of split-toe shoes, they are "a nod to even knowing about Maison Margiela, it… shows that you are part of an elite subculture".
市场研究机构 Verve 的 Meg Palmer 谈到分趾鞋时说,它们是“对知道 Maison Margiela 这一点的暗示,它……表明你属于某个精英亚文化圈”。
Although, she points out, "it’ll be interesting to seeing how (and if at all) split toe shoes will continue to signal status as they become more widespread and get co-opted by different brands.
不过,她指出,“随着分趾鞋变得更加普及,并被不同品牌借用,它们将如何继续——或者是否还能继续——象征身份地位,会很值得观察。
Will we need even 'uglier' variants?"
我们会需要更加“丑”的变体吗?”
These out-of-the-box shoes came to the fore at a time in 2023 when a styling trick by Allison Bornstein, dubbed the "wrong-shoe theory", was gaining traction on TikTok – she posited that footwear that was a mismatch or looked a little "off" was the perfect way to add personality to an outfit.
这些打破常规的鞋款在 2023 年走到台前,当时 Allison Bornstein 提出的造型技巧“错鞋理论”正在 TikTok 上获得关注;她认为,与整体搭配不协调、或看起来有点“不对劲”的鞋,正是给一套造型加入个性的完美方式。
And what’s more "off" than a Frankenshoe?
还有什么比一双“拼怪鞋”更“不对劲”的呢?
It's the perfect antidote to carefully curated online environments.
它正是对精心策划的线上环境的完美解药。
As Phillips puts it: "a lot of these shoes also carry a kind of anti-perfection energy.
正如 Phillips 所说:“很多这类鞋也带有一种反完美的能量。”
” And, "in a moment where personal style feels increasingly performative and optimised, an unusual shoe can signal individuality, humour, discernment, or even a refusal to dress in an overly predictable way".
而且,“在个人风格越来越显得像是在表演、并被不断优化的当下,一双不同寻常的鞋可以传递个性、幽默、辨别力,甚至是拒绝以过于可预测的方式穿衣的态度。”
Palmer agrees.
帕尔默对此表示赞同。
"In the age of AI slop, perfectly curated Instagram feeds, predictable algorithms etc these 'ugly' shoes feel like a juxtaposition to the 'perfection' we see online."
“在 AI 垃圾内容、精心打理到完美的 Instagram 动态、可预测的算法等等充斥的时代,这些‘丑鞋’感觉像是与我们在网上看到的那种‘完美’形成并置对照。”
• The artworks that inspired eight Met Gala looks
• 启发八套 Met Gala 造型的艺术作品
• The moment Cher wore the ultimate 'revenge'' outfit
• 雪儿穿上终极“复仇”造型的那一刻
• The risqué 80s jeans ad that 'created shockwaves'
• 那则“引发震动”的大胆 80 年代牛仔裤广告
In that way, these shoes can become a bit anarchic: "you can wear a Damson Madder 'girly'' frilly outfit with a Nike split-toe Air Rift shoe and it feels like a middle finger to the beauty standards and gender conventions we're being served," says Palmer.
从这个意义上说,这些鞋会变得有点叛逆:“你可以穿一身 Damson Madder ‘少女感’荷叶边套装,搭一双 Nike 分趾 Air Rift 鞋,那感觉就像对我们被灌输的美貌标准和性别规范竖起中指,”Palmer 说。
Plus, lines are blurring everywhere we look, not just in fashion, and hybrids are a natural by-product: another good example are the F ranken-pastries rising in the world of baking, where croissants, doughnuts and cookies are constantly being cross-baked.
此外,不只是时尚界,我们目之所及的各种界限都在变得模糊,而混合体就是自然副产品:另一个好例子是烘焙界兴起的“弗兰肯糕点”,在那里,羊角面包、甜甜圈和饼干不断被交叉烘焙、混搭在一起。
For Phillips, "in many ways, these hybrids also mirror broader cultural mashups: the blurring of work and leisure, masculine and feminine codes, high fashion and functionality."
在 Phillips 看来,“从许多方面看,这些混合鞋也映照出更广泛的文化混搭:工作与休闲的边界模糊,阳刚与阴柔符码的融合,以及高级时装与功能性的结合。”
Plus, she says, "we're seeing the continued collapse of boundaries between utility wear, sportswear, orthopaedic design, luxury fashion and internet aesthetics."
此外,她说,“我们正在看到实用服饰、运动服、矫形设计、奢侈时尚和互联网审美之间的界限持续瓦解。”
In this light, "shoes originally designed for hiking, recovery, barefoot movement or pure practicality now read as culturally interesting because they disrupt conventional ideas of elegance or attractiveness."
从这个角度看,“那些原本为徒步、恢复、赤足活动或纯粹实用性而设计的鞋,如今被视为具有文化趣味,因为它们打破了关于优雅或吸引力的传统观念。”
It's part of why approach shoes, which marry the comfort of a hiking shoe with the strong grip of a climbing one, have been scaling fashion's heights of late.
这也是 approach shoes 近来攀上时尚高峰的部分原因;这种鞋把徒步鞋的舒适性和攀岩鞋的强抓地力结合在一起。
Objectively a bit odd to look at, though not strictly speaking ugly, they offer intrigue and function.
客观地说,它们看起来有点奇怪,虽然严格来讲并不丑,却兼具吸引力和功能性。
And this links to another often overlooked reason we are seeing some unexpected moves in fashion's footwear of choice.
这也关联到另一个常被忽视的原因,解释了为什么我们会在时尚界偏爱的鞋履中看到一些意想不到的变化。
When it comes to many of these shoes – the more potato-like ones and the clogs designed for horticulture in particular – it comes down to one thing.
说到这些鞋中的许多款式——尤其是那些更像土豆的鞋,以及为园艺设计的木鞋——归根结底都落在一件事上。
"You can talk a lot about rebellion, AI slop fatigue, taste, status etc," says Palmer.
帕尔默说:“你可以大谈反叛、对 AI 垃圾内容的疲劳、品味、地位等等。”
"But it's all just as simple as… they're really, really comfy."
“但归根到底也很简单……它们真的、真的很舒服。”
My approach shoes, I can confirm, feel like a fluffy loaf of bread on your foot.
我可以确认,我的接近鞋穿在脚上感觉就像一条松软的面包。
And who wouldn't want that?
而谁会不想要那种感觉呢?
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