French perfume expert Clémence Pelle lives and breathes fragrance.
法国香水专家 Clémence Pelle 对香水香氛全心投入。
Here, she shares her favourite perfumeries in Paris, plus her tips on how to buy scent the French way.
在这里，她分享了自己最喜欢的巴黎香水店，以及如何按法国人的方式购买香氛的建议。
For Paris-born fragrance expert Clémence Pelle, perfume is more than a job: "It's my life, it's my hobby, it's in my DNA."
对于出生在巴黎的香水专家克莱芒丝·佩勒来说，香水不只是一份工作：“它是我的生活，是我的爱好，已经融入了我的 DNA。”
It's not a bold claim – perfume has been embedded in the Parisian identity since the "perfumed court" of Louis XIV.
这并不是夸张的说法，从路易十四的“香水宫廷”时期起，香水就已经深深融入巴黎人的身份认同之中。
By the 18th and 19th Centuries, parfumeries had spread throughout the city, helping establish it as the global capital of fragrance, just as it was emerging as a fashion centre.
到了18和19世纪，香水店已经遍布整座城市，帮助巴黎确立了全球香氛之都的地位，同时它也正崛起为时尚中心。
"[In Paris], you had that mix of fragrance and haute couture very early on, [with Coco] Chanel," says Pelle.
佩勒说：“在巴黎，很早以前就有了香水与高级定制服装的结合，比如可可·香奈儿。”
"In 1921 she created [Chanel] No 5 to match her vision of modern femininity."
“1921 年，她创作了香奈儿 5 号，以契合她对现代女性气质的构想。”
Contemporary French style is often associated with a "less-is-more, spontaneous vibe", says Pelle.
佩勒说，当代法国风格常常让人联想到一种“少即是多、自然随性的氛围”。
"[So we prefer] a very simple eau de toilette that is usually laid back and effortless."
“[所以我们更喜欢]一种非常简单的淡香水，通常低调随性、毫不费力。”
Today, there are hundreds of perfumeries across Paris, ranging from heritage houses like Houbigant and Guerlain to opulent department stores like Galeries Lafayette and Samaritaine.
如今，巴黎各处有数百家香水店，从 Houbigant 和 Guerlain 这样的传统香水品牌，到 Galeries Lafayette 和 Samaritaine 这样的豪华百货公司，应有尽有。
Pelle favours shopping in the vibrant Le Marais neighbourhood, home to a high concentration of perfume boutiques.
Pelle 更喜欢在充满活力的玛黑区购物，那里聚集了大量香水精品店。
Niche fragrance brands like Maison Francis Kurkdjian and Jeroboam sit alongside classics like Chanel and Dior.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian 和 Jeroboam 等小众香水品牌，与香奈儿、迪奥这样的经典品牌并列陈列。
The sheer choice can't being overwhelming, admits Pelle: "At the same time it's inspiring because now we can choose something that really makes us feel unique".
佩勒承认，选择之多本身就可能让人不知所措：“与此同时，这也很有启发性，因为现在我们可以选择真正让自己感到独特的东西。”
Here are Pelle's tips on how – and where – to shop for perfume in Paris.
以下是 Pelle 关于如何以及去哪里在巴黎选购香水的建议。
It's very effortless – we don't like complicated, don't like too heavy.
它非常轻松自然，我们不喜欢复杂的，也不喜欢太厚重的。
In France, when you perfume yourself it's going to be on the pulse points, where the vein is so it can warm up the scent and make it blossom on the skin.
在法国，给自己喷香水时会喷在脉搏点，也就是有静脉的地方，这样体温能温热香气，让它在皮肤上绽放。
One or two sprays maximum on each side of the neck, and that's all.
脖子两侧各喷一两下最多，就这样够了。
Coco Chanel used to saying, 'wearing fragrance where you want to be kissed.'
可可·香奈儿曾经说过：“把香水喷在你希望被亲吻的地方。”
[In France, we kiss] when we say hello so you would put fragrance behind the ear so everyone can smell you when they say hello to you.
在法国，我们打招呼时会亲吻对方，所以你会把香水涂在耳后，这样别人向你问好时就能闻到你的香气。
But it's also very, very light.
但它也非常非常清淡。
You still find Chanel No 5 in so many bathrooms.
你仍然能在很多浴室里看到香奈儿5号。
French people are still very attached to their designer fragrances: Chanel, Dior, Hermes.
法国人仍然非常钟爱他们的设计师品牌香水：香奈儿、迪奥、爱马仕。
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male, a spicy androgynous smell that was used in nightclubs in the '90s and 2000s, is still very popular.
Jean Paul Gaultier 的 Le Male 仍然很受欢迎，它是一种辛辣、中性的气味，在 90 年代和 2000 年代常用于夜店。
For women, it's still and forever Coco Mademoiselle.
对女性来说，永远还是 Coco Mademoiselle。
[But some new] brands that are super popular are Maison Francis Kurkdjian – [they have scents like] Baccarat Rouge or Grand Soir, a beautiful amber-y scent that's [intended] to represent Paris nightlife.
但一些非常受欢迎的新品牌包括 Maison Francis Kurkdjian——它们有 Baccarat Rouge 或 Grand Soir 这样的香氛，后者是一款美妙的琥珀调香气，意在体现巴黎夜生活。
you've some growing brands like BDK, with fragrances like Gris Charnel that smell like cashmere.
也有一些正在成长的品牌，比如 BDK，它们推出了 Gris Charnel 这样的香水，闻起来像羊绒一样柔软。
There's a [trend towards] clean fragrances in Paris; fragrances that smell like laundry, very clean, slightly soapy, skin-like, not too powerful.
巴黎有一种偏向干净香氛的趋势；这些香味闻起来像洗过的衣物，非常洁净，略带皂感，贴近肌肤气息，不会太浓烈。
Very effortless.
非常轻松自然。
If you want to try a fragrance that really represents current Parisian trends, [try] Musc K by Ella K; it smells like baby powder, clean like the clothes outside your washing machine.
如果你想试一款真正代表当下巴黎潮流的香水，[可以试试] Ella K 的 Musc K；它闻起来像婴儿爽身粉，又像刚从洗衣机里拿出来的衣服那样干净。
In terms of etiquette, is there anything that you shouldn't do in a Parisian perfume shop?
从礼仪上来说，在巴黎的香水店里有什么不该做的事吗？
Don't test too many at once; shop for perfumes by batch.
不要一次试太多；买香水要分批试。
Go to your favourite niche perfumery and try three, because you get overwhelmed.
去你最喜欢的小众香水店，试三款就好，因为你很容易被太多选择弄得不知所措。
Try the fragrance on the skin, let it settle for 20 minutes to really see the dry down [full effect].
把香水试在皮肤上，让它静置 20 分钟，才能真正感受到尾调的完整效果。
Stick to three – five fragrances maximum – because otherwise you don't see the development and it might take more time to find the fragrance you need.
最多只试三到五款香水，因为否则你就感受不到香味的发展变化，也可能需要更久才能找到适合你的香水。
Don't spray fragrance and then rub your wrists together.
不要喷完香水后把两只手腕互相摩擦。
There's a saying in France that if you do, you'll break the molecules of the fragrance and then you can't smell the full composition.
法国有一种说法，如果你那样做，就会破坏香水的分子，之后就闻不出它完整的香氛构成。
Be respectful and wait for the [assistant] to show you around.
要有礼貌，等店员带你参观介绍。
asked first [before you touch anything].
在触碰任何东西之前，先询问一下。
You need to say hello when you walk in, especially if you go to Le Marais, which is like a little village.
你走进去时需要打招呼，尤其是在去玛黑区的时候，那里就像一个小村庄。
Announce yourself, start the conversation.
先打个招呼，开启对话。
Us French people, sometimes We're a little fussy.
我们法国人有时候会有点挑剔。
We're not rude, we're just a bit specific.
我们不是粗鲁，只是有点讲究。
Don't be scared if you see some really judgemental eyes.
如果你看到一些非常挑剔的眼神，也不要害怕。
It's usually not judgemental at all, it's just the basic looks of a French person.
这通常完全不是在评判别人，只是法国人基本都会有的那种神情。
The best place to shop for a large selection of rare fragrance?
想购买种类丰富的稀有香水，最好的地方是哪里？
Jovoy.
这里指的是 Jovoy。
They're smaller than Galeries Lafayette but they're really big at the moment.
他们比老佛爷百货小，但眼下非常火。
They have a mix of vintage and also very modern fragrances.
他们既有复古香水，也有非常现代的香水。
It's close to the Louvre.
它离卢浮宫很近。
It's really beautiful and there's always a team of at least five people on the shop floor to help, so it's a great experience.
那里真的很美，而且店面里总有至少五名员工组成的团队提供帮助，所以是一次很棒的体验。
Officine Universelle Buly is incredible because it looks like an apothecary.
Officine Universelle Buly 非常棒，因为它看起来像一间老药房。
Everything is wooden but very old-fashioned...
所有东西都是木质的，但很复古老派……
it's a bit like travelling in time.
这有点像在时间中旅行。
They don't just sell fragrances – they do lots of little soaps and things that they can personalise but in a very vintage way, like a hair kit in a little valise.
他们不只是卖香水，还做很多小香皂和其他可以个性化定制的东西，而且风格很复古，比如装在小手提箱里的发饰套装。
They obviously have a huge collection of fragrance oil and perfume, but water-based which is a really interesting concept, so it's quite light and fresh – the Parisian vibe.
他们显然有大量香氛油和香水，但都是水基的，这是一个非常有意思的概念，所以感觉相当轻盈清新，很有巴黎气息。
The best perfume shop to learn about fragrance?
想了解香水，最好的香水店是哪一家？
You have so many little boutiques in Paris that are specialised in fragrance.
巴黎有很多专门经营香水的小精品店。
But there's a boutique called Marie Antoinette, close to Le Marais, and there's a man in there, his name is António [Figuereido], is so passionate about fragrance.
不过，在 Le Marais 附近有一家名叫 Marie Antoinette 的精品店，店里有位名叫 António Figuereido 的男士，他对香水非常有热情。
He'll tell you how you're going to feel [when wearing it] and the storytelling behind it.
他会告诉你戴上这款香水后会有什么感受，以及它背后的故事。
Ask for a violet fragrance, and he'll curate five or six and explain why each is different.
你要一款紫罗兰香调的香水，他就会精选五六款，并解释每一款为什么不同。
It makes the fragrance so much more special when you know all these things.
当你了解这些背景之后，这款香水就会显得特别得多。
Marie Antoinette is super small but it's incredible.
Marie Antoinette非常小，但很了不起。
It's like being in your grandmum's apothecary.
那感觉就像走进你祖母的药剂铺。
At Univere Parfumerie, you may find brands that you've never seen before, and the managers of this boutique are very specialised in perfumery.
在 Univere Parfumerie，你可能会发现从未见过的品牌，而且这家精品店的经理们都非常精通香水业。
The last time I came I asked for something clean and suddenly I had a curated list just for me, just like that.
上次我来时，我说想要一些干净清爽的香味，结果一下子就有了一份专门为我精选的清单。
And they do also a lot of events with niche fragrance brands.
他们还会和小众香水品牌举办许多活动。
It's super cool, if you want to discover something.
如果你想发现点新东西，这里特别酷。
It's a bit more modern, it's super on-trend.
它更现代一点，非常符合当下潮流。
The most innovative Parisian perfume shop right now?
眼下最有创新性的巴黎香水店是哪一家？
Nowadays you see also a lot of concept boutiques; for example, at Kilian they serve cocktails.
如今你也会看到很多概念精品店；比如在 Kilian，他们会供应鸡尾酒。
If you go to my favourite brand, L'Orchestre Parfum, they'll have you listen to music that matches your fragrance.
如果你去我最喜欢的品牌 L'Orchestre Parfum，他们会让你聆听与你的香水相匹配的音乐。
These things create an emotional connection and it is curated for you.
这些东西会营造出一种情感联结，而且是专门为你策划挑选的。
The manager is so passionate, he spends so much time with each client.
店长非常热情，会花很多时间陪每一位顾客。
You finish by hanging out with other customers at the fragrance bar and then everyone starts sharing stories about fragrance.
最后你会在香氛吧和其他顾客一起闲聊，然后大家开始分享关于香水的故事。
It's a very small boutique but it looks super cool and it's a really amazing time.
那是一家很小的精品店，但看起来特别酷，也会是一段非常美妙的体验。
* This interview has been condensed for length and clarity.
* 为控制篇幅并提升清晰度，本采访经过删节整理。
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