BBC Travel

Chef José Andrés teaches you how to enjoy tapas like a Spaniard

The Michelin-starred chef helped bring tapas culture to the US, but there's nothing like enjoying them in Spain. Here are his tips for enjoying the beloved shared plates.

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The Michelin-starred chef helped bring tapas culture to the US, but there's nothing like enjoying them in Spain.

这位米其林星级厨师帮助把塔帕斯小吃文化带到了美国,但没有什么比在西班牙当地享用它们更地道。

Here are his tips for enjoying the beloved shared plates – the Spanish way.

以下是他关于如何以西班牙人的方式享用这些备受喜爱的共享小盘菜的建议。

Chef José Andrés has lived in and around Washington DC for 35 years, but he has never forgotten his native Spain – or its delicious culinary customs.

主厨何塞·安德烈斯已经在华盛顿特区及其周边生活了35年,但他从未忘记自己的故乡西班牙,也没有忘记那里美味的饮食习俗。

The Asturias-born restauranteur, whose Spanish eateries are often credited with introducing Spanish cuisine to the US, chatted with the BBC about tapas, the deeply social Spanish tradition of dining on shared, snack-sized plates.

这位出生于阿斯图里亚斯的餐馆经营者旗下的西班牙餐厅常被认为把西班牙美食带入了美国;他与 BBC 聊起塔帕斯,这种高度社交化的西班牙传统,是大家共享小吃分量的小盘菜。

"To me, tapas have always been a trojan horse to understand Spain," says Andrés.

安德烈斯说:“对我来说,塔帕斯一直是理解西班牙的一匹特洛伊木马。”

"When we first opened Jaleo – my Spanish restaurant in Washington – more than 30 years ago, no one was familiar with sharing plateseveryone wanted to have their own meal."

“三十多年前,我们刚在华盛顿开 Jaleo,也就是我的西班牙餐厅时,没有人熟悉分着吃小盘菜……每个人都想吃自己的一份餐。”

Since then, tapas have travelled the globe.

从那以后,tapas 走向了世界各地。

"[These days], people are more willing to push their plates to the centre of the table and share," says Andrés.

安德烈斯说:“如今,人们更愿意把自己的盘子推到桌子中央,与大家分享。”

"Tapas are, at the same time, a simple way of eating and an entire way of life.

“Tapas 既是一种简单的饮食方式,也是一整套生活方式。

They are a commitment to being together, sharing dishes, sharing an experience."

它们代表着一种承诺:大家聚在一起,分享菜肴,也分享一段体验。”

But there's nothing like eating them in their country of origin.

但没有什么比在它们的发源国吃它们更地道了。

There are innumerable varieties found throughout Spain's 17 regions, traditionally enjoyed in lively bars called tabernas.

在西班牙的17个地区,到处都能找到数不清的不同种类,传统上人们会在名为tabernas的热闹酒吧里享用它们。

But "you'll find tapas everywhere", says Andrés.

但安德烈斯说:“你到处都能找到 tapas。”

"In small bars that make very basic tapas, a bowl of olives or chips, all the way to the fine dining places.

“从供应非常基础塔帕斯的小酒吧里的一碗橄榄或薯片,到高级餐饮场所,都是如此。”

I think they are an opportunity to do so much in a very small, restricted space, whether you're doing something simple like an anchovy on bread or something wild that no one has ever seen before."

我觉得它们让人有机会在非常小、很受限制的空间里做出很多变化,无论是做一片面包配凤尾鱼这样简单的东西,还是做出从没人见过的大胆创意。

That said, there are unspoken cultural norms to navigating one of Spain's most beloved dining traditions.

话虽如此,要体验西班牙最受喜爱的饮食传统之一,仍有一些不成文的文化规矩需要了解。

Here are Andrés's tips for enjoying tapas – like a Spaniard.

以下是安德烈斯关于如何像西班牙人一样享用 tapas 的建议。

We Spaniards are very social, and tapas are the perfect food for people like us.

我们西班牙人非常爱社交,而 tapas 正是最适合我们这样人的食物。

To be around a table or a bar filled with little plates, it means everyone is putting your hands or forks or spoons in, pouring a bottle of wine, enjoying each other's company.

围坐在摆满小盘菜的桌边或吧台旁,意味着每个人都会伸手、用叉子或勺子一起分享,倒上一瓶葡萄酒,享受彼此相伴的时光。

What is your favourite part of the classic Spanish tapas experience?

经典西班牙 tapas 体验中,你最喜欢的是哪一部分?

I love [a] tapeo (to go on a tapas crawl).

我喜欢 tapeo,也就是一家接一家地去吃 tapas。

This is the way I think about a meal – not staying in one place too long, getting a drink and some bites here, then moving onto the next place and getting another glass of wine and another snack or two.

这就是我看待一顿饭的方式:不要在一个地方待太久,在这里喝一杯、吃点小吃,然后去下一家,再来一杯葡萄酒,再吃一两样小食。

Whenever you're hungry!

什么时候饿了都可以!

C'mon, I'm not trying to tell you how to live your life.

得了吧,我不是想教你该怎么过日子。

I don't have a single favourite tapas order… what I like to do is, if I'm visiting a new restaurant, to seeing what the people around me are eating.

我没有唯一最喜欢点的 tapas……我喜欢做的是,如果去一家新餐馆,就看看周围的人都在吃什么。

Are they all eating the same one tapa?

他们都在吃同一份塔帕吗?

That might mean it's the specialty of the house and I should get it.

那可能意味着这是店里的招牌菜,我应该点一份。

Or are they all looking at the bar and seeing what is sitting there, and I should go and look and pick for myself?

还是说他们都在看吧台上摆着什么,而我也应该过去看看,自己挑选?

There are, of course, a few classicstortilla española (thick omelette made with potatoes and onions), gambas al ajillo (prawns in garlic oil), patatas bravas (fried potatoes in spicy sauce), croquetas (croquettes with a creamy centre) – that you might want to try anywhere, to see how they are the same or different, but I think it's always important to try the specials.

当然,有几道经典菜你到哪里都可能想尝尝,比如 tortilla española(土豆和洋葱做成的厚煎蛋饼)、gambas al ajillo(蒜油大虾)、patatas bravas(配辣酱的炸土豆)和 croquetas(内馅绵滑的炸丸子),看看各地做法有哪些相同或不同;不过我认为,尝试店里的特色菜始终很重要。

What is the correct drink to pair with tapas, and why?

什么饮品最适合搭配塔帕斯,为什么?

There is no 'correct' drink, but there are probably incorrect ones.

没有所谓“正确”的搭配饮品,但也许确实有一些不太合适的选择。

Spaniards, we tend to have a few rules about what you do and don't drink when.

我们西班牙人通常对什么时候该喝什么、不该喝什么有一些规矩。

We don't usually drink things that are too high in alcohol ahead of the meal; it goes straight to your head.

我们通常不会在饭前喝酒精度太高的东西,因为那会一下子上头。

That's why gin-tonics are for after dinner.

所以金汤力是晚餐后才喝的。

But with tapas, you can have a glass or bottle of Cava or white wine or red wine (whatever your preference), a few pours of sidra (alcoholic apple cider), a few very cold beers.

但吃塔帕斯时,你可以喝一杯或一瓶卡瓦起泡酒、白葡萄酒或红葡萄酒,随你喜欢,也可以来几杯 sidra(含酒精的苹果酒),再喝几杯冰镇啤酒。

In Spain you find that the beers are served in small glasses so you can always have a new one that's ice cold!

在西班牙你会发现,啤酒都是用小杯装的,所以你总能再来一杯冰得透凉的新鲜啤酒!

Sherry, vermouth… all of them have their time and place.

雪莉酒、味美思……它们都有各自适合的时间和场合。

Where are your favourite places to get tapas in Spain?

在西班牙,你最喜欢去哪些地方吃 tapas?

There are neighbourhoods in cities around the country where you can go from bar to bar and try something everywhere… this is the way.

在西班牙各地的城市里,有些街区可以让你一家酒吧接一家酒吧地逛,每到一处都尝点东西……这才是正确的方式。

Of course, you should go to [the city of] San Sebastián in the Basque Country to try the pintxos (bite-sized Basque bar snacks) on [the historic street,] Calle 31 de Agosto.

当然,你应该去巴斯克地区的圣塞瓦斯蒂安市,在历史悠久的八月三十一日街品尝 pintxos,也就是一口大小的巴斯克酒吧小吃。

There is a difference between pintxos and tapaspintxos are often served on toothpicks and usually sitting out on the top of the bar.

pintxos 和 tapas 是有区别的:pintxos 通常用牙签串着端上来,而且一般就摆在吧台上。

Get anchovies, of course, and try a gilda, the very famous skewer of anchovies, peppers and olives that maybe was the very first pintxo (at least the story goes).

当然要点凤尾鱼,也试试 gilda,那是一串非常有名的凤尾鱼、辣椒和橄榄小串,也许就是最早的 pintxo,至少传说是这样。

If you're in the north [of Spain], check out Calle Laurel in [the city of] Logroño, where every restaurant has its own specialty.

如果你在西班牙北部,可以去洛格罗尼奥市的劳雷尔街看看,那里每家餐馆都有自己的招牌菜。

They actually call them pinchos there… we Spaniards sometimes like to confuse outsiders!

他们在那里其实把它们叫作 pinchos……我们西班牙人有时候就是喜欢把外人弄糊涂!

Go for the champiñón con gamba (mushroom-prawn) tapa in one place, the oreja de cerdo (fried pigs' ears) in another, the tortilla española in a third… you will say that Logroño is heaven.

在一家店吃 champiñón con gamba(蘑菇虾)tapa,在另一家吃 oreja de cerdo(炸猪耳),再去第三家吃西班牙土豆煎蛋……你会说洛格罗尼奥简直是天堂。

And of course you'll want to find yourself in Barcelona, in [the historic neighbourhoods of] el Born and Barri Gotic… if you set your destination to El Xampanyet or Cal Pep or La Plata and then wander from there, you won't go wrong.

当然,你也会想去巴塞罗那,去埃尔博恩和哥特区这些历史街区……如果你把目的地设为El Xampanyet、Cal Pep或La Plata,然后从那里开始闲逛,就不会出错。

At La Plata you get pescadito (little fried fish), plus a tomato ensalada (salad), pan con tomate (grilled bread with tomato), and whatever pinchos they have available.

在 La Plata,你可以吃到 pescadito(小炸鱼),还有番茄 ensalada(沙拉)、pan con tomate(配番茄的烤面包),以及店里当天供应的各种 pinchos。

[At] El Xampanyet, it's a glass of bubbles and again, take a look behind the tapas bar and order whatever looks good.

在 El Xampanyet,来一杯起泡酒,然后同样看看 tapas 吧台后面有什么,什么看起来不错就点什么。

Cal Pep is for seafood tapas, razor clams and clams, plus fried artichokes.

Cal Pep 适合吃海鲜 tapas,比如竹蛏和蛤蜊,还有炸朝鲜蓟。

In Madrid find yourself on Calle Ponzano, just look to see where the Madrileños [locals] are eating or take a walk to the neighbourhood of Lavapiés and find Melo's … you should order the croqueta de lacón (creamy cured pork shoulder croquette) and their zapatilla sandwich with ham and tetilla cheese.

在马德里,你可以去庞萨诺街,看看马德里本地人都在哪里吃东西;或者去拉瓦皮耶斯街区走走,找到Melo's……你应该点一份croqueta de lacón,也就是奶香浓郁的腌猪肩肉炸丸子,还有他们夹着火腿和tetilla奶酪的zapatilla三明治。

Don't miss the south [of Spain]!

别错过西班牙南部!

If you are in a town like Sanlúcar de Barrameda, there is a tapa you need to find, the very famous tortillita (crispy, lacy fritters) of shrimp.

如果你在桑卢卡尔-德巴拉梅达这样的城镇,有一道 tapa 你一定要去找,那就是非常有名的虾肉 tortillita,一种酥脆、薄网状的小炸饼。

[I like the one] at Casa Balbinothough really anywhere you find shrimp in a place this close to the sea will be a treat.

我喜欢 Casa Balbino 的那一道……不过说真的,在离海这么近的地方,只要能吃到虾,都会是一种享受。

What's a mistake that visitors always make when ordering tapas?

游客点塔帕斯时总会犯什么错误?

Don't stay in one place!

不要待在一个地方!

A drink, a few bites and keep it moving, people!

一杯饮品、几口小吃,然后继续走起来,各位!

BBC Travel's The SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world, as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers.

BBC Travel 的《The SpeciaList》是一系列旅行指南,通过当地专家和潮流引领者的视角,介绍世界各地热门及新兴目的地。

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