Bornholm is a strategically located, remote island in the heavily polluted Baltic Sea.
博恩霍尔姆是波罗的海中一座位置具有战略意义的偏远岛屿，而波罗的海污染严重。
Now the windswept Danish island finds itself at the centre of an environmental and geopolitical crisis.
如今，这座饱受海风吹拂的丹麦岛屿正处在一场环境与地缘政治危机的中心。
The tourist season on Bornholm is short.
博恩霍尔姆的旅游季很短。
When I step off the bus the large harbour is empty except for a handful of yachts and a detachment of Danish soldiers.
我下公共汽车时，偌大的港口空空荡荡，只有寥寥几艘游艇和一队丹麦士兵。
The fish-processing factory on the quay is silent and apparently abandoned, and over its shoulder peeks a new estate of holiday homes.
码头上的鱼类加工厂寂静无声，看起来已经废弃；在它身后，一片新的度假屋小区若隐若现。
The harbourmaster's office is nonetheless still busy, one of its walls lined by old sepia photographs of the harbour in busier days.
不过，港务长办公室依然忙碌，其中一面墙上挂满了港口昔日繁忙景象的棕褐色老照片。
"I having worked here for nearly 27 years," Tom Nielsen, the harbourmaster, says.
“我在这里工作了将近27年，”港务长汤姆·尼尔森说。
"We used to have 55 boats at one times, and now we have one left… You could walk across the harbour from one fishing boat to another.
“我们过去最多同时有55艘船，现在只剩下一艘了……那时你可以从一艘渔船走到另一艘，横穿整个港口。
It was absolutely full.
港口当时完全停满了船。
So many ships, so many people in the industry, in the factory, as mechanics, electricians.
那时有那么多船，那么多人在这个行业里工作，在工厂里当机械师、电工。
There were three people on land for every one person at sea.
每有一个人在海上作业，岸上就有三个人为之工作。
"It was a shock when the fishing disappeared… and there are still no fish."
“渔业消失时让人震惊……而现在仍然没有鱼。”
Commercial cod fishing around Bornholm has been banned since 2019 owing to the collapse of local cod stocks.
由于当地鳕鱼种群崩溃，自2019年以来，博恩霍尔姆周边的商业鳕鱼捕捞一直被禁止。
In 2024, the 141-year-old fishermen's association in Bornholm closed down.
2024年，博恩霍尔姆拥有141年历史的渔民协会关闭了。
It may take more than 400 years for the maritime environment to recover from factors such as overfishing, oxygen depletion and rising sea temperatures.
海洋环境可能需要400多年，才能从过度捕捞、氧气耗竭和海水温度上升等因素造成的影响中恢复过来。
Some believe it may not happen at all.
一些人认为，这种恢复也许根本不会发生。
For under the Baltic Sea's waters, an invisible enemy is on the march.
因为在波罗的海水下，一个看不见的敌人正在步步逼近。
Areas of the sea floor with little or no oxygen, known as "dead zones", appear to aren't creeping closer to Bornholm's beaches.
海底那些含氧量很低或完全没有氧气的区域，被称为“死亡区”，似乎正在悄然逼近博恩霍尔姆的海滩。
This is due to human pollution from fertilisers and sewage creating huge algal blooms, which, when they die, sinks to the sea floor and cover it.
这是因为化肥和污水造成的人类污染引发了大规模藻华；这些藻类死亡后沉入海底，并覆盖在海床上。
Their decomposition uses up the available oxygen, kills the living organisms that depend on it, and – as a result – creates dead zones.
它们的分解会耗尽可用氧气，杀死依赖氧气生存的生物，并由此形成死亡区。
As if this wasn't enough, the Baltic Sea is facing a new threat to its survival.
仿佛这些还不够，波罗的海还面临着新的生存威胁。
Russia's 2022 full-scale invasion of Ukraine created a "ghost fleet" of ships to bypass Western sanctions and the price cap on its oil exports.
俄罗斯在2022年全面入侵乌克兰，催生了一支用于绕过西方制裁和其石油出口价格上限的“幽灵船队”。
Today there are growing fears of an accidental massive oil spill from one of the allegedly poorly maintained merchant ships of Russia's ghost fleet that would further devastate the fragile Baltic Sea environments, a claim which Russian authorities denies.
如今，人们越来越担心，俄罗斯“幽灵船队”中那些据称维护不善的商船之一可能发生意外的大规模漏油事故，进一步破坏脆弱的波罗的海环境；俄罗斯当局否认了这一说法。
Towering over the harbour at the far ended of the quay in Tejn is the tall corrugated-iron factory that used to make ice for the island's fishing fleet.
在泰恩码头的尽头，一座高大的波纹铁皮工厂俯瞰着港口；它过去曾为岛上的渔船队制冰。
Now it is home to a local environmental education charity named Ivandet (Danish for "in the water").
如今，这里是一家名为 Ivandet 的当地环境教育慈善机构所在地，这个词在丹麦语中意为“在水中”。
"After the industry collapsed no one wanted to talking about what happened," says Marie Helene Miller Birk, a marine biologist and co-founder of Ivandet.
“渔业崩溃之后，没有人愿意谈论发生了什么，”海洋生物学家、Ivandet 联合创始人玛丽·海伦·米勒·伯克说。
"We founded that the most important thing right now was to getting people in the water and get them talking."
“我们发现，当下最重要的事是让人们下水，并让他们开始谈论这些问题。”
Ivandet replaced the machinery with a café, a mezzanine office space and a balcony with 180-degree views out over the Baltic Sea.
Ivandet 用一家咖啡馆、一处夹层办公空间和一个可以 180 度眺望波罗的海的阳台，取代了原来的机械设备。
The walls and pipes of the factory remain as a memorial to the fishing industry.
工厂的墙壁和管道被保留下来，作为对渔业的纪念。
The organisation created an artificial lagoon out into the sea.
该组织向海中建造了一片人工潟湖。
"In the summertime, families coming down and spend time with us," says Birk.
“夏天，许多家庭会来到这里，和我们一起度过一段时间，”伯克说。
"We have a marine biologist, usually me, with waders, fishing nets and water binoculars.
“我们会安排一名海洋生物学家，通常是我，带着涉水裤、渔网和水下观察镜。
The kids start getting curious, pull their parents in, and then the conversations begin.
孩子们开始好奇起来，把父母也拉进来，然后对话就开始了。
"It's like the parents have needed someone to ask about all these things that they've heard in the media about the pollution," she adds.
“感觉就像这些父母一直需要有人来解答他们从媒体上听到的、关于污染的种种问题，”她补充说。
Co-founder Magnus Heide Andreasen, a PhD student in marine ecology at the National Institute of Aquatic Resources in Copenhagen, and now co-founder of habitat restoration startup Redox, which is working on a new commercial technology which aims to reverse the oxygen depletion of the sea floor and restore its polluted sediments.
联合创始人马格努斯·海德·安德烈亚森是哥本哈根国家水产资源研究所的海洋生态学博士生，如今也是栖息地修复初创公司 Redox 的联合创始人；该公司正在研发一项新的商业技术，旨在逆转海底缺氧状况，并修复受污染的沉积物。
He's can't tell me much more, though.
不过，他不能再向我透露更多了。
"It's still secret."
“这仍然是秘密。”
Looking out across the Baltic Sea from the balcony, it's hard for me to believe that the sea is so polluted.
从阳台远眺波罗的海，我很难相信这片海竟然污染得如此严重。
"That's the biggest problem the sea faces," says Birk.
“这正是这片海面临的最大问题，”伯克说。
"It looks so beautiful."
“它看起来太美了。”
Under the sea's surface, it can be a very different story.
但在海面之下，情况可能完全不同。
"The Baltic Sea is a small, semi-enclosed sea with a unique set of characteristics," says Rüdiger Strempel, Executive Secretary, Baltic Marine Environment Protection Commission ( HELCOM ) over a video call.
“波罗的海是一片面积不大、半封闭的海域，具有一组独特的特征，”波罗的海海洋环境保护委员会（HELCOM）执行秘书吕迪格·施特伦佩尔在视频通话中说。
"It's the biggest brackish water area in the world and has very limited water exchange with the neighbouring North Sea."
“它是世界上最大的半咸水水域，与邻近的北海之间的水体交换非常有限。”
Helcom is an intergovernmental organisation founded to protect the environment of the Baltic Sea.
HELCOM 是一个为保护波罗的海环境而成立的政府间组织。
It has 10 members, including Russia, and was set up in the 1970s.
它有 10 个成员，包括俄罗斯，并于 20 世纪 70 年代成立。
"Water can remain resident for 30 years in the Baltic.
“水可以在波罗的海中停留 30 年。
It's also very shallow."
它也非常浅。”
The Baltic Sea's average depth is around 180ft (54m); the Mediterranean's average, in comparison, is 4,920ft (1,500m).
波罗的海的平均深度约为 180 英尺（54 米）；相比之下，地中海的平均深度为 4,920 英尺（1,500 米）。
"It has many species adapted specifically to these conditions," Strempel says.
“这里有许多物种专门适应了这些条件，”施特伦佩尔说。
At least seven major rivers drain into the Baltic Sea.
至少有七条主要河流注入波罗的海。
Its catchment area is four times the surface area of the sea itself and home to almost 90 million people.
它的集水区面积是海域本身表面积的四倍，并且生活着近9000万人。
"It is one of the busiest sea areas in the world," Strempel says.
斯特伦佩尔说：“它是世界上最繁忙的海域之一。”
"We have an average of 1,500 large vessels out there at any given moment, and around 55,000 vessels entering or leaving the Baltic Sea through the Danish Straits every year."
“在任何时候，那里平均都有1500艘大型船舶，每年约有5.5万艘船通过丹麦海峡进出波罗的海。”
"You can imagine that the Baltic Sea is subjected to a lot of pressures that it's not very well equipped to deal with."
“可以想象，波罗的海承受着许多压力，而它并没有足够能力应对这些压力。”
I am looking at one of them.
我正在看其中一种压力。
On my screen is a picture of beautiful swirls of dancing and shimmering colour that look like the Northern Lights – but they aren't.
我的屏幕上是一张美丽的图像，色彩旋转、跃动、闪烁，看起来像北极光，但它们并不是。
They are blue-green algae blooms, and they are helping to kill large parts of the Baltic Sea.
它们是蓝绿藻水华，正在助推波罗的海大片区域走向死亡。
"The Baltic is one of the most polluted sea areas in the world," says Annamari Arrakoski-Engardt, CEO of Finland's John Nurminen Foundation.
芬兰约翰·努尔米宁基金会首席执行官安娜玛丽·阿拉科斯基-恩加特说：“波罗的海是世界上污染最严重的海域之一。”
"The main problem in the Baltic Sea is eutrophication."
“波罗的海的主要问题是富营养化。”
Eutrophication is natural process.
富营养化是一个自然过程。
It also occurs when too many nutrients such as phosphorus and nitrogen from farming end up in the sea.
当农业产生的磷、氮等过多营养物质最终进入海中时，也会发生富营养化。
These nutrients stimulate the growth of algae and lead to the creation of dense blooms which can block out sunlight.
这些营养物质会刺激藻类生长，形成密集的水华，阻挡阳光。
But this is only the start.
但这只是开始。
When the algae dies, it sinks to the sea floor and start to decompose.
藻类死亡后会沉入海底并开始分解。
This uses up the dissolved oxygen in the water and leaves little or no oxygen for fish and other life forms, resulting in dead zones.
这一过程会耗尽水中的溶解氧，使鱼类和其他生命形式几乎没有氧气可用，甚至完全无氧，最终形成死亡区。
Eutrophication is occurring in the Baltic on a massive scale.
波罗的海正在大规模发生富营养化。
"We have a situation in which 97% of the Baltic Sea is in some way affected by eutrophication," says Strempel.
斯特伦佩尔说：“目前的情况是，波罗的海97%的海域都在某种程度上受到富营养化影响。”
"The 'dead zones' vary seasonally from roughly the size of Denmark to larger than Ireland."
“这些‘死亡区’会随季节变化，面积从大约相当于丹麦，到比爱尔兰还大不等。”
The cliffs and rocks of Bornholm's coast provide the perfect protection for life.
博恩霍尔姆海岸的悬崖和岩石为生命提供了完美的保护。
"But the sea bottom can end up covered in a white layer which we call in Danish a 'corpse sheet''," Birk says.
伯克说：“但海底最终可能会被一层白色物质覆盖，我们在丹麦语中称之为‘尸布’。”
"It's covering a larger area each year and, in some parts, lasting all year.
“它每年覆盖的面积都在扩大，而且在一些地方会持续一整年。
"Normally it's out in the deep sea," she adds.
她补充说：“通常它出现在深海区域。”
"Now it's getting more and more coastal.
“现在它越来越向近岸扩展。
This is a new thing."
这是一个新现象。”
The Baltic Sea faces many other serious problems as well.
波罗的海还面临许多其他严重问题。
"We have a serious issue of hazardous substances in the Baltic Sea," says Strempel, "which we now realise, thanks to new data, is at least as pressing as the issue of eutrophication."
斯特伦佩尔说：“波罗的海存在严重的有害物质问题；得益于新数据，我们现在意识到，这个问题至少和富营养化问题一样紧迫。”
The pollutants in the Baltic Sea include chemicals, plastics, pharmaceuticals, shipping, World War Two munitions and chemical weapons.
波罗的海的污染物包括化学品、塑料、药物、航运污染、二战弹药和化学武器。
"In German waters alone, there are some 300,000 tons of conventional munitions.
“仅在德国水域，就有大约30万吨常规弹药。
There are also some 40,000 tons of chemical munitions resting on the sea floor," says Strempel.
斯特伦佩尔说：“此外，还有约4万吨化学弹药沉在海床上。”
Then there is climate change, which is having a significant impact on the Baltic Sea, in terms of – for example – sea temperature rise, growing dead-zones and reduction in bio-diversity.
此外还有气候变化，它正对波罗的海产生显著影响，例如海水温度上升、死区扩大以及生物多样性减少。
Many grassroots organisations like Ivandet have sprung up across the region.
像Ivandet这样的许多基层组织已在该地区各地涌现。
In 2024, the Save the Baltic Sea hiking expedition went on a nine-month, 6,000km (3,700-mile) hike around the Baltic Sea to raise awareness of the sea's pollution and campaign for action by businesses and governments.
2024年，“拯救波罗的海”徒步远征队围绕波罗的海进行了为期九个月、全程6000公里（3700英里）的徒步，以提高人们对该海域污染的认识，并呼吁企业和政府采取行动。
The John Nurminen Foundation is working with the agriculture community to reduce the amount of eutrophication causing nitrogen and phosphorus in the Baltic Sea.
约翰·努尔米宁基金会正在与农业界合作，减少波罗的海中会导致富营养化的氮和磷含量。
"We are working with the farmers in Finland to use a gypsum treatment on the fields," says Arrakoski-Engardt.
阿拉科斯基-恩加特说：“我们正在与芬兰的农民合作，在田地里使用石膏处理法。”
"This keeps the phosphorus in the soil for five years to help the plants to grow and cuts the phosphorus load by 50%.
“这能让磷在土壤中保留五年，帮助植物生长，并将磷负荷减少50%。
This is something we are now testing all over the Baltic Sea."
这是我们现在正在整个波罗的海地区测试的方法。”
Before the Russian invasion of Ukraine, the foundation also placed enhanced phosphorus removal equipment in five cities in Belarus.
在俄罗斯入侵乌克兰之前，该基金会还在白俄罗斯的五座城市安装了强化除磷设备。
"This also motivated Lithuania and Poland to doing more because they no longer had the dirty water coming from Belarus," she says.
她说：“这也促使立陶宛和波兰采取更多行动，因为来自白俄罗斯的脏水不再流入它们那里。”
Helcom has also played an important part in fostering essential cooperation among Baltic Sea states with its action plan.
赫尔辛基委员会也通过其行动计划，在促进波罗的海沿岸国家之间的关键合作方面发挥了重要作用。
The level of nutrient pollution in the sea has "significantly declined".
该海域的营养物污染水平已“显著下降”。
Thanks to a programme of aerial surveillance, the number of detected oil spills fell from 763 in 1989 to only 32 in 2023.
得益于一项空中监测计划，被发现的漏油事件数量从1989年的763起降至2023年的仅32起。
"We established in the late '90s a system of pollution hotspots, and we are little by little able to delete more and more of those," says Strempel.
斯特伦佩尔说：“我们在20世纪90年代末建立了一套污染热点系统，并且正逐步能够从中移除越来越多的热点。”
"We just heard that Poland, for example, was able to eliminate the last of its hotspots.
“我们刚刚听说，例如波兰已经能够消除其最后一个污染热点。
"Sulphur and NOx emissions are also limited for ships crossing the Baltic Sea.
“穿越波罗的海的船舶，其硫和氮氧化物排放也受到限制。
So that is something we have also achieved."
所以，这也是我们已经取得的一项成果。”
The International Maritime Organization ( IMO ) has banned the discharge of human waste from passenger ships and ferries into its waters.
国际海事组织（IMO）已禁止客船和渡轮向波罗的海水域排放人体废弃物。
While there is some good news, the Baltic Sea's physical size and the scale of the pollution, as well as the increasing effects of climate change, mean that a full restoration is likely to be impossible.
尽管有一些好消息，但波罗的海的实际规模、污染程度以及气候变化影响的不断加剧，意味着全面恢复很可能是不可能的。
"I couldn't live without the hope that we can restore the Baltic Sea," says Magnus Heide Andreasen.
马格努斯·海德·安德烈亚森说：“如果没有我们能够恢复波罗的海的希望，我就无法生活下去。”
"But it will not be the Baltic Sea we had 150 years ago."
“但它不会再是150年前的那个波罗的海。”
The geopolitical crisis in the Baltic has made any potential recovery process more complicated.
波罗的海地区的地缘政治危机使任何潜在的恢复进程都变得更加复杂。
The widespread fears over the threat to the environment posed by the merchant ships of Russia's "shadow fleet" are, perhaps, the most public expressions of the crisis.
人们普遍担心俄罗斯“影子舰队”的商船对环境构成威胁，这或许是这场危机最公开的表现。
"It would be a disaster if any of the Russian shadow fleet of tankers hit rocks and caused a massive oil spill in the Baltic Sea," says Arrakoski-Engardt.
阿拉科斯基-恩加特说：“如果俄罗斯影子舰队中的任何一艘油轮触礁，并在波罗的海造成大规模石油泄漏，那将是一场灾难。”
"That's the biggest threat, and therefore our biggest problem."
“那是最大的威胁，因此也是我们最大的问题。”
Russia has in the past been accused by environmentalists of covering-up its "environmental assault on the Baltic", a claim which Russia denies, including the biggest ever phosphorus leak from the land into the Baltic Sea.
过去，环保人士曾指责俄罗斯掩盖其“对波罗的海的环境攻击”，其中包括有史以来规模最大的陆源磷泄漏进入波罗的海事件，但俄罗斯否认这一说法。
While Russia has remained a member of Helcom after the invasion of Ukraine, the other nine members (H9) decided "business as usual with Russia" was impossible.
虽然俄罗斯在入侵乌克兰后仍然是赫尔辛基委员会的成员，但其他九个成员（H9）认为不可能再与俄罗斯“照常合作”。
Instead, they agreed to a "strategic pause" that ended formal meetings with Russia.
相反，他们同意进入一段“战略暂停”，结束与俄罗斯的正式会议。
Now, the H9 meet informally when decisions are needed.
如今，在需要作出决定时，H9会举行非正式会议。
These are transmitted in writing to Russia through Helcom's secretariat, and Russia can then reply in writing.
这些决定会通过赫尔辛基委员会秘书处以书面形式传达给俄罗斯，随后俄罗斯也可以书面回复。
"Contacts have become more difficult and are greatly diminished," says Strempel.
施特伦佩尔说：“接触变得更加困难，也大幅减少了。”
"We are not getting any information from them, and there is no way we can monitor what they are doing."
“我们无法从他们那里得到任何信息，也没有办法监督他们在做什么。”
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On his most recent trip to the Baltic, Oliver Moody was surprised by the fear of Russia he found.
在最近一次前往波罗的海地区的旅行中，奥利弗·穆迪对当地人对俄罗斯的恐惧感到惊讶。
Moody is Berlin correspondent at The Times and author of Baltic: The Future of Europe.
穆迪是《泰晤士报》驻柏林记者，也是《波罗的海：欧洲的未来》一书的作者。
"The governments of the Baltic have really been rattled by the geopolitics in ways that they don't let on in public," he says.
他说：“波罗的海沿岸国家的政府确实受到了地缘政治的严重震动，只是他们没有在公开场合表现出来。”
"There is a lot of genuine fear about the prospect for a massive oil leak from the shadow fleet tankers."
“人们真的非常担心影子舰队油轮可能发生大规模石油泄漏。”
But he says he does not think the environmental issues "have yet fallen down the priority lists".
但他说，他并不认为环境问题“已经在优先事项清单上被排到后面”。
The prospect of military action in the sea could, however, pose significant challenges.
然而，海上发生军事行动的可能性可能会带来重大挑战。
"Even a limited kind of military conflict in the Baltic is likely to paralyse a lot of the ongoing conservation efforts and set things back noticeably."
“即使是波罗的海地区一种有限的军事冲突，也可能使许多正在进行的保护工作陷入瘫痪，并使进展明显倒退。”
(The day after I arrive back in the UK, some airports in the region are closed due to drones that may have been launched from Russian ships.
（我回到英国的第二天，该地区的一些机场因可能从俄罗斯船只上发射的无人机而关闭。
In response, the Russian embassy in London said: "Russia remains committed to its obligations under the Helsinki Convention and continues to participate in Helcom as a full member.
作为回应，俄罗斯驻伦敦大使馆表示：“俄罗斯仍然致力于履行《赫尔辛基公约》规定的义务，并继续作为正式成员参与赫尔辛基委员会。
The decision by the other nine members to suspend formal cooperation was a political choice, not a consequence of any alleged environmental violations by the Russian side.
其他九个成员暂停正式合作的决定是一种政治选择，并不是俄方任何所谓环境违规行为的后果。
"We believe that environmental issues in the Baltic Sea should not be politicised.
“我们认为，波罗的海的环境问题不应被政治化。
Western allegations regarding the so-called 'shadow fleet' are largely based on hypothetical scenarios, while real and documented environmental damage caused by other incidents has received far less attention."
西方关于所谓‘影子舰队’的指控在很大程度上基于假设情景，而其他事件造成的真实且有记录的环境损害却受到少得多的关注。”
The problems the Baltic faces seem so great that it has been hard for Birk to keep her natural sense of optimism.
波罗的海面临的问题似乎如此严峻，以至于比尔克很难保持她天生的乐观感。
"But I keep coming back to the most important thing," she says.
她说：“但我总会回到最重要的事情上来。”
"Keep going into the water and keep showing the life that is still out there to people.
“继续下水，继续向人们展示海里依然存在的生命。
"The Baltic Sea isn't dead.
“波罗的海并没有死。
It has changed.
它已经变了。
It's not like it was before.
它已经不像从前那样了。
We need to help Bornholm see the opportunities that the sea still can provide."
我们需要帮助博恩霍尔姆看到大海仍然能够提供的机会。”
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